Yongzhou to Guilin to Huaihua to Fenghuang

May 18, 2009 - Fenghuang, China

Next on the itinerary is Fenghuang. We started the morning in Yongzhou, planning to catch a bus to Guilin at around 11AM. We had breakfast at a nearby café. Aidan and Ainsley both have banana pancakes (which are a local specialty) and banana porridge. Both were very good. Cam sticks to his breakfast sandwich.

Aidan and Cam at the Guilin train station

We caught the bus and were in Guilin a little after noon. At around 1:30PM, we got on our eleven hour train ride to Huaihua. Because of the length of the train ride, we had booked hard sleepers. So off and on into the afternoon and evening we tried to sleep. At about 12:30PM, we were put off the bus in Huaihua. Since it was so late and we just needed to catch a bus early the next morning, we had been hoping that we could just grab a few seats in the train station until closer to 7AM. Unfortunately, in Chinese train stations, the areas with seats are restricted to ticket holders. The area outside the train station was kind of scary, with pushy taxi cab drivers, people pushing hotel rooms and who knows what else. We tried a couple of the nearby hotels, but their rates were too high. Finally, we decided that we might have better luck at the bus station and so started walking there. However, it seemed like people were always staring at us and we had some pushy people follow us, offering to drive us to nearby places, like Fenghuang. We decided we were better off at the train station where there was a security guard, so we returned there, to the front, where could sit and await the dawn. No wonder the LP book only mentioned Huaihua as a connection point—what a dump! Morning did not change my opinion as it was very dirty and the people were generally quite rude (and that is saying something after three weeks).

Our view of Huaihua from the train station

At about 6AM, we headed to the bus station, very tired and sweat-stained. Found the bus going to Fenghuang, which was about 3 hours or so. We were the only non-asians on the bus.

When we arrived at Fenghuang, I was relieved to see that it looked as nice as it had sounded. A “funky riverside town with oodles of old-fashioned charm” is how LP described it. We had planned to check out some smaller hotel rates, but had trouble finding them in the rain, and since our bags were getting all wet, we decided instead to go to the hostel (which we were able to find). First on the agenda was to get a little more sleep (I think we all nodded off on the bus ride).

The riverside town of Fenghuang

Hong Qiao bridge

When we felt more human, we ventured out from the hostel. The old part of the town has only a couple of cobble-stone roads wide enough for a car, mostly there are just are narrow back alleys. There is a section of restored city wall which can be walked along and the neat covered Hong Qiao bridge, which contains small shops. Along the sides of the river, you can see women washing their laundry. Men are fishing in the river. There are many boats taking tourists down the river. In addition to the bridges, there are pedestrian crossings (cement blocks or a plank of wood to step across).

For lunch, we stopped in a small restaurant. No English on the menu. The phrasebook was invaluable as Aidan and Cam were able to point to rice and chicken and get some variation on that. Our servers were two young teenage girls. They didn’t know much English, but were thrilled to help us. A huge bucket of rice came to the table along with the chicken, which was apparently very good.

At lunch -- notice the bucket of rice and the mosquito-bitten, drenched travellers

After lunch, we did some exploring, checking out the city wall, trying some of the local dried fruit and candies. We went to the travel agent and got our next leg travel plans sorted out.

The inside of the city walls


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7 Comments

June 13, 2009
Hi,
I'm planning for a trip to Fenghuang next mth and I was hoping if I get some information from u?
1. Name of the bus-station in Huaihua.
2. Cost of the bus ticket.
I'm a student and is travelling on a really tight budget. Thank u so much if u help!
Cheers,
Rose
skype: bunnyrosy
Evion:
June 18, 2009
hi friends,
happy to read your blog...i will doing the huaihua-fenghuang-zhangjiajie routes this coming september too...hope that you will give me your email so i can ask some info from you personally.

thanks!
Brooke:
September 24, 2009
hi there! i need some assistance in a good travel agent that speaks english... i'm leaving in less than a week and need some help!
Jelena:
February 20, 2010
thanks, great info!!!
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