Tanzania - Iringa to Twiga Camp in Kenya

August 11, 2011 - Sawasawa, Kenya

 

Leaving Ruaha we had a puncture and exhaust problems, the same exhaust problem that has been fixed in 3 different countries! George found some ‘bush mechanics’ in Iringa and with a bit of sign language managed to get everything sorted. Iringa has been a great town, lots of little Western type shops and a big veggie market. All down the streets there were seamstresses busy with their singers and carts moving past full of fruits or other goods. We pulled in to Riverside Valley Camp east of Iringa, the signage looked promising and it was a wonderful stop after the dust of Ruaha. The owners were fantastic hosts and served tasty buffet meals every night at very reasonable rates. What a relief to have grass, electricity, hot showers and laundry services!

The main roads through towards Kilimanjaro were full of lorries and buses, one bus company was aptly called “Hood”.  Hundreds of passengers risk their lives on the roads in Tanzania. Buses commute with extreme speed and overtake on double barrier lines, sharp corners and blind rises. Luckily the big trucks had far more considerate drivers. We over-nighted at the Tans Swiss Campsite then journeyed on to Peponi Beach Camp enjoying some adventure en route, a huge maize lorry had jack knifed and covered the entire road! There was much activity as the traffic backed up far on both sides and all the bus passengers poured out to spectate. We envisioned a long wait as the lorry seemed to be stuck and made a plan to bundu bash around through high grass followed shortly by many others. Steve was in his element, he wanted to stick around and direct affairs - soon he was instructing bus drivers on how to navigate their way through too.  Lucky for them the lorry with some manoeuvring moved on and the buses passed with passengers scurrying in an effort to board.

Since George had a cold and Paula was also not so well we decided on the spur of the moment to leave Kilimanjaro for another time. We made an abrupt turn east to the coast and from Peponi have moved up into Kenya. From there we will do Uganda, Rwanda and come down again into Tanzania to see the migration and climb Kili. We stayed at Peponi campsite near Tanga for 3 nights, a lovely stop marred only by the unseasonal rain and noisy locals! At night hermit crabs ran around camp and bush babies cried from the trees and in the day I enjoyed many high tide swims, the sea was calm and the tide changes dramatic.

Pushing on towards Kenya the border posts went well. Sometimes all parties do not have to be present, I stayed in the car sending an email. The Kenyan official did not like that one bit and called me in asking why I did not come in and greet him as he wanted to welcome me to his country! They were very friendly, like the Tanzanian police most of the time when we have been stopped it has just been to make conversation and probably relieve their boredom!

Kenyan roads were a relief after all the road works on the Tanzanian side from Tanga to the border. George and I arrived exhausted at Twiga camp after 5pm, it had been a 7 hour drive, much of it with road works and diversions on the Tanzanian side. We got a very warm Kenyan welcome. Our next door neighbour is from Nairobi and is a wonderful friendly man on holiday with his family.  Apparently Kenya does not have much of a camping culture and in terms of camps Twiga is as good as it gets. Twiga is perfectly located, right on the beach, not bad for R25 p.p. per night....... of course that includes cold showers and toilets with no seats or paper but hey “hakuna matata” we have alternatives!

We leave the caravan at Twiga for a weekend in Malindi, hoping on the way back to get repairs for an oil leak done in Mombasa. We will spend George’s birthday on the 13th with my brother Ed, who is farming around Malindi near Garsen. He says they are rather starved of “the English variety” and enjoy visitors! Very good news for me.........he has a washing machine!

 


Pictures

Puncture coming out of Ruaha
'Bush Mechanic'  and sign language to get the job done - exhaust gasket.
Tanzanian moving heavy loads
Roadside vege market
 
 

12 Comments

maria:
August 11, 2011
Hi sweets!! am sitting here listening to depressing newes 'bout the pre-double-dip-financial meltdown. Oh the greed of mankind....
Reading your travel update is a welcome distraction and seeing the pics
makes me realize the wisdom of fleeing all of this and making contact with beautiful Africa. I also have a cold but I think George will get better sooner than me - on a Kenyan beach. Sigh....
I love the look of that veggie market! Would be a perfect place for me to
park off and investigate.
Enjoy the washing machine! God bless xMaria
Rashida:
August 11, 2011
Hey There Macs,

Just a quick hallo, and also just want to wish George a very HAPPY BIRTHDAY for Saturday. Hope you have a wonderfully Blessed time in Kenya. May an Angel of mercy be with you and cover you with a gentle wing so that you always walk wrapped in God's grace; Protected, Peaceful and Loved. Best Wishes and Many Blessings.
Much Love,
Rashids
Charmaine:
August 11, 2011
Hey Surprise!!
Funny I sent this earlier but did not go through? Was great catching up with you today. Your photos are phenomenal ......some really breathtaking shots. I especially love the ones of the people. Alice you have some real talent here x All the best to George for his birthday!!
Claire:
August 12, 2011
Would be awesome if we could get in touch whilst you are with Ed. Have a fine b'day Mr. Georgie Porgie. Love to you both. Mwa
Ellie:
August 12, 2011
Hi. Love the twiga beach camp complete with camel! Nice touch! Your road travel adventures makes Hospital Bend seem like a slight inconvenience. Have a great time with your brother. Have a wonderful birthday, George. Take care, Ellie
Sinclair & Carol:
August 12, 2011
Well by the time you get back here you will not want to settle down as it will be so dull by comparison. What an amazing time you are having. Have you started writing the book yet ??!!
As George and Carol share the same day will shall definitly be rasing a glass or two for you George.
Weather is wet today but sunny tomorrow. Winter has been so sunny that there is a looming shortage of water if we don't get some prolonged rain soon. Maybe like last year? Kepp safe and keep up with the brilliant blog, We are holding you in prayer, God bless Carol & Sinclair
Amy MacLennan:
August 12, 2011
wow LOVELY gosh .Thatbeach loks spectacular , Happy Birthday oom :) Liefde vir julle xxx
The Bennetts:
August 13, 2011
Howzit guys How are you doing. Wishing George an awesome Happy Birthday. Looks like you guys are having a huge adventure. Wish we could be there. Lots of love Craig, Andrea & Erin
Annick:
August 14, 2011
Hey George, we thought of you on Saturday. I have no doubt that your birthday celebration was a memorable one. I've stayed in Malindi on 2 occasions ages ago, first time we stayed in a little beach hut got robbed:( second time was more civilised, a family holiday in a rented cottage when Izla was about 6 months old. In fact Izla is in Nairobi now until the 19th of August. She's staying at her grand parents, her dad's there also.
Love you lots xxxxxx
philip:
August 15, 2011
Hey my two beauties,

It was so nice to hear your voice again oom George as Amy put it. At the time of chatting you were a bit depressed because the Stormers lost on Friday evening. And we both hoped that the Springboks would pull it through on Saturday. But alas, no such luck.
It sounds like you guys are in a bit more civilisation according to the road conditions and the markets available.

Well George I do trust that you had an enjoyable birthday and that our Heavenly FATHER spoilt you rotten.
Love to both you and Alice. Stay safe and enjoy your next adventure. Much love and warm regards.
Elise:
August 17, 2011
Soooo lovely to hear your voice today, Ali! Here's the info I promised:
Michael Eaton and his friend Jeremiah Mugala are the two pastors of Chrisco Central Church in Kibera slum suburb, Nairobi.
Hope you find him :-)
Much love
E xx
November 10, 2011
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