What a crazy few days... I think I left it last after climbing in Monterrey in Huaraz. We went out for pizza inthe evening in a reccomended restaurant from the guide book called Piccolo’s.We went back straight after as we were all pretty tired and had an early startfor the bike riding which was to turn out to be the most exhausting scary dayof my live I think!
So we got up early and weren’t feeling too tired from the climbing, packed ourkit and went to meet Claudio at Peru Treks to start the bike ride. I had had abit of an upset tummy for a few days so was feeling a bit sketchy. ‘Peru time’ ishalf an hour later than you actually say! So Claudio was not there until gonehalf eight. The earlier the start the better as it gets very hot in the day andrains really heavily in the afternoon so we were anxious to get on with theride.
Our bikes looked ok and we had helmets, so off we went towards the mountains. Weheaded futher out of Huaraz centre to the more rural edge where there was lotsof stray dogs around. As we rode up a section by the river and few dogs beganto run at us, Claudio and Liam were ahead but the little bloody dog startednipping at my feet as I rode, (it was uphill and I wasn’t going quick enough toget away!). I tried kicking it but as I did that the clever little b******stopped and then leapt in and bit my ankle!! The locals around were laughingand I was swearing my head off. It was so frustrating, if I had just beenriding a bit quicker or lifted my legs up and turned around down the hill.... hindsightis a wonderful thing. We rode to the top of the section and onto a proper road.Claudio said we just needed to clean it and it would be ok but I was adamant wewere going to the hospital! So off we went.
It wasn’t far and we were there quite quickly. John and Liam were not allowedin so we decided they should go back and get the insurance details, contactembassy etc. I went in with Claudio, good job he was there as no one spokeEnglish. He chatted to the receptionist; I paid my 6 soles (1 pound) and sat down inthe small ward. Then about 5 nurses came around all speaking in Spanish, Ithink more to stare and talk about a gringo (and laugh) rather than look at mywound! They took by temperature, heart rate and blood pressure (no technicalmachines though). Then when asked my age I replied ‘vente quatra’, pronouncedquite well I thought… but that drew huge laughter and Claudio said they weremocking my Spanish! Oh well!
Went thoughto see the doc, she cleaned the wound with iodine and saline and bandaged itup. They let me take a video of it! Prescribed me pills but said I did not needa jab. They were all very helpful, but I didn’t realise how useless they wereuntil the next day.
Claudio andI went to get the medication form the pharmacy around the corner and waited forLiam and John. I went back to Hostel and Claudio went back to Hospital where wehad told security guard to tell them to wait…which they did. So we were allreunited and the bite did not hurt. I had taken the first few pills and after abreak, off we went again.. albeit on a slightly different route at the start!Just as we were getting to the start of the mountain my pedal falls off mybike!! We were beginning to think that perhaps some greater force did not wantus to go on this ride… but I’m so glad we did! Claudio rode my bike back to theshop and got a better one (with 2 pedals!) taxied up to us. So, much later andMUCH hotter than expected of we went!
We beganclimbing and the hills were so steep. We were struggling with the heat and weencountered some more dogs (to my horror). Claudio was really great though andhas a lot more guts than me! He just rode straight at any dog and skidded atit. Most backed away but a few got angry and he had to leap off his bike! Hewas always going first when we saw a dog and closed them off so we could rideby which was a big relief.
Afterclimbing for ages we asked how long are on hills for… Claudio said ´Oh onlyanother 3 hours! On we struggled, John didn’t like the hills and took somesneaky shortcuts as we rode the hairpins we crossed back and forth across themountain he walked straight up! The views were amazing and we encountered somany people living so high, over 3000m, and no where near any amenities.. or soI thought! We stopped at a little shop, being run by a 12 year old lad whichsold chocolate, crisps, drinks and phone cards!! Unbelievable! On we went andthe heat was unbearable, I think John felt like turning around at one point, hehad some painful bites too but he ploughed on. We saw some really unique things…a football pitch where if you kick the ball off you lose it down the mountain, avolley ball grass court at the back of a hostel at about 3500m and buses (Toyotavans) plodding up and down dropping people off at their houses. It was a reallyhard climb and when we finally reached the start of the decent the weatherbegan to turn and it was so cold, cue the base layers and a quick pace. As weentered the down hill section the views were amazing, I’m finally uploadingpics now so check them out! We rode around a ravine with a river runningthrough it and every so often would encounter a lady with sheep and donkeysjust plodding along. John and I were at the front at some pace and out of nowhere came four dogs charging towards us barking like mad, I pulled both breaksturned and skidded the bike flat and ran like mad. The brakes are the oppositeway around here! John pulled the front brake, flew over the bars as I was runningback and hobbled after me! Was amusing afterwards but we panicked like mad atthe time! Claudio shielded the dogs again and on we rode. This is quite a longentry so I’ll try and be quick now! We then wound our way down, the best viewsI think I have ever seen over Huaraz and the Cordillera Blanca. We could see agold mine too. We then did a really technical section that was ness than ametre wide and took about half an hour which was down rocks and steps, good funbut hard work. After this we were so tired, and rain was starting again so wepowered on and went past a Peruvian party in the rain! We got back and we were totallyexhausted. Had showers and went out for food. We thought we deserved somethinggood so went for another pizza at a different place… it was the worst meal wehave all ever had! Pizza base was cardboard, garlic bread was horrible and theybrought is about 50 pieces of the stuff, we so disappointed, took our bottle ofPepsi and went back to rest!! In the morning I was to find out I did need a jabfor Rabies, and that triggered total panic on my front. I’ll write about thatin the next entry!
Really I forgot to write why I called this entry live and learn... was a combination of things. When we went climbing, we did't take the first aid kit, me and john both cut our hands on glass, johns quite badly. We got bitten loads as in the forest and di't use the DEET we had brought. Then we forgot to bring insurance papers when I got bitten. We have learnt more about travelling in the first 5 days than I reckon we will in the rest of the trip... well I hope so anyway.
Ciao x x x
