Venice and Padua

June 30, 2009 - Venice, Italy

No trip to Italy would be complete without a visit to Venice, the beautiful “City of Bridges” that sits on over one hundred islands in a saltwater lagoon on the Adriatic coast. Unique among European cities, there are no roads and no cars, with all transportation entirely by boat or on foot.

The train journey from Florence was our pièce de résistance with the ticket machine. Its initial recommendations all involved expensive intercity trains, but by drilling into “more options”, we found an itinerary involving three regional trains connecting in Prato and Bologna, costing a fraction of the price, and arriving two hours earlier! We were warned about tight connections, but as usual the trains were running right on time, and we had our packs on and were ready to go at each stop. Even the four minutes between trains in Prato caused us no problems, although the kids found it all very exciting as we dashed through the station subways!

Once in Venice, we boarded a vaporetta (water bus) for a scenic ride along the Grand Canal that winds through the center of the city, admiring the spectacular architecture of the bridges and buildings that rise right out of the water on either side. We were dropped at Piazza San Marco, the iconic central square on the waterfront. After exploring St Mark's Basilica, we left most of the tourists behind, and wandered for several hours along the smaller canals and quieter residential alleys, passing through some beautiful little piazzas as we wound our way back to the train station. Along the way, it was fascinating to watch the water traffic going by, including all kinds of private and commercial boats maneuvering around each other, negotiating the narrow waterways with impressive skill. The whole city was a magical experience, incredibly beautiful and quite unlike anything we'd seen anywhere else.

We were unable to find affordable accommodation in Venice itself, so opted instead to stay at a youth hostel in Padua, about 50 km to the west, which turned out to be a great decision. The hostel was on a quiet leafy street, and like most Italian hostels, very efficient and well organized. And the city was the perfect place to relax. The main shopping street, Via Roma,  is closed to car traffic, and has a great atmosphere with beautiful architecture and lots of outdoor cafés, and everyone from teenagers to old grandpas riding around on their beat-up old bicycles. Near our hostel we found the elegant Prato della Valle park, and wandering through the piazzas in the older part of town, we discovered wonderful fruit and vegetable markets at every turn. Definitely a place we could enjoy exploring further on a future visit.


Pictures

Grand Canal
Piazza San Marco
St Mark's Basilica
Gondolas
 
 

6 Comments

Dad:
July 3, 2009
We always wanted to go to Venice and Padua sounds really nice, especially the part about old grandpas.
Sara:
July 4, 2009
That's a vacation for the wish list! Now I can't wait to hear about Croatia. I'm guessing where you are going is spectacularly beautiful. I'd like to hear how you choose Hvar. And, can't wait for the pics. You're coming down the home stretch! What will all of your loyal readers do after August?! (Maybe you're wondering that about yourselves.) Oh well, keep it comin' while you can :) Love to you all.
Elizabeth Nuckols:
July 5, 2009
The hostel in Padua is also where Becky and I stayed when the nuns wouldn't take us in in Venice:)...funny!
Susan Beares:
July 6, 2009
Italy is beautiful and I understand why people go back often.

Have you thought about getting jobs as advocates for mass transit. Something you could speak about at length after this trip.

One observation: I see Luke in long pant that don't look so long any more. Has he grown that much!

I am with Sara, can't wait to see and hear about Croatia.

I for one will miss your journal after you are home. I hope you can add some stories about what it's like to be back home and even add some pictures.
Kathleen:
July 7, 2009
You're doing it right, girl! You snuck in Venice, I see . . . the planning of a truly determined traveler.

Dubrovnik Tip: The old town will be wildly crowded by 9-9:30AM. Cruise ships disgorge 10-20,000 passengers each morning. They arrive in a stream of coaches that plug the square and you'll not find a square foot of space from wall to wall. If you're moored in the pleasure harbor, you'll luck out, for the old town is right there. But if you're docked among the cruise ships, ask around and get the number of the bus that runs directly from the harbor to the main gate of the fortified town. I think it's #1 - a 15 minute ride. The walk is not great: 4-5 miles and a lot of "uphill". Get up early one morning and take the 7:40AM bus to see the town before anyone arrives. Oh, my gosh! It's a totally different experience. The streets will be absolutely yours and you'll never believe the their peacefulness and beauty. Totally empty of tourists - only locals returning from the bakery or greeting friends - cats meandering under cafe tables while waiters set up for the day - birds picking at last night's crumbs. Magical. Then, walk the walls for an aerial view of the city -- high above the madness of the crowds below. Start your wall walk at the pleasure harbor entry point. Streets will be thick with tourists until after midnight and there's no avoiding being caught in a massive tourist trap. Morning is your best opportunity to savor this jewel. good luck!!
Marian:
July 8, 2009
Finally - a place I have been to and recognize the pictures. I loved Venice and would enjoy spending more time there. I have really enjoyed reading about your travels and look forward to seeing you soon! What a great adventure!!

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