Pat & Frenchies

January 14, 2007 - Letterfrack, Ireland

Whootie tooters!

Bumpy busing from Galway to Cliften. 3-4 hour walk to Letterfrack on shoulder-less roads. Really feel like a foreigner. My voluminous pack makes for a very efficient, but heavy parachute in the sudden valley winds. Said gusts like to attack on blind curves in the road and when cars are passing. Meet middle-aged 'Pat' while exploring his shrine/alter to 'Our Lady' on an outcropping in an isolated lake. He tries his damnedest to convert me to Catholicism while I nod and smile. The story about being paralyzed for 4 years until a 4th visit to the basilica of Lourdes, France is speckled with gems like:
- "Trust in God because people will let you down like a ton 'o bricks."
- "I got me walk back after four years 'o straps and chairs."
- "I'm not lying, so just go on 'n believe in God."
I love him. Lit a candle and left a note for Maw Maw.

Stay in the Old Monastery Hostel, the only accommodation available in Letterfrack in January (www.oldmonasteryhostel.com). Amazing! Classical music, warmth from a fire, and the blue glow of Christmas lights make the bathroom easy to find. Thought I would be alone in the hostel until bombarded by French. Apparently the French love Ireland, and make up 90% of the visitors to this bohemian hostel in the summer. Though owned by an Irish man named Steven, it was Nathain (a French expat) whom renovated the place in a matter of a year or two. From him I learn the Irish use 'turf' as a slow-burning fuel for their fires, as there are few trees. They burn dirt! They also casually gather mussels from the sea for dinner. I have to return from my walk along the peninsula without any due to darkness...

Beers, pool, chess, cards with the French and a Belgian. A hike in the adjacent Connemara National Park that had to be aborted due to unbelievably strong winds. Apparently tourists die every year from being blown off mountains- had to squat low occasionally grabbing the ground with my hands so as not to add to this unfortunate toll- hahaha. Heavy limbs soaked with rain and every stride/leap downward opposed by wind, the hurried descent felt like I was on the moon. My boots are still not dry.

Hitch and walk with the Belgian and a Frenchie around the area and back to Galway, where I currently sit. Sheep graffitied with neon markings. Boob-shaped mountains. A ride from a very well groomed elderly Irish man wearing a pink dress shirt in a warm car with acoustic renditions of show tunes playing. Precarious blisters on both heels protected by camouflage-styled duct tape.

Hungry and the internet is not free this time...so time to go. Having a good good time (right mom?), hope all is well.

5 Comments

Kristen the Isten:
January 15, 2007
I cried my way through a sad, sad evening here due to an Irish movie about "lost" girls who became washerwomen in the name of the Lord. Basically, any girl who was too flirtatious, raped, or otherwise sexually abused was given over to the church to "reform". Of course, once they were forced into indentured servitude to "redeem" their souls, even though they toiled away in the laundry and the priests sexually abused them, they were treated as criminals. The last of the women, mostly taken from working class families who could not afford to force their "seducers" (more accurately rapists) into marrying them, only got out in 1986. Can you imagine? Fucking papists letting women rot in a sexually abusive, morally bancrupt "jail" for all their lives waiting to be forgiven by the masculinized "church" that forsook them! Makes me boiling mad, enough to come over there and kick some bretheren ass. I hope you get off that god-foresaken island. No offense, I'm mostly scotts-irish, but after watching The Magdalene Sisters I want nothing to do with the Irish, and would prefer a hefty does of scotch. You should take to Hadrian's wall and do the "scenic" route. That will help you avoid certain rowdy elements as well as give you a feel for the lay of the land. My 'Cross' peoples came from the Manchester region. Where did the Youngbloods come from? If all else fails, high thee to London and get thee off of those god-forsaken islands, I feel they don't bode well for you. Perhaps Belgium will bring you good fortune. Go to Brugges. There you can kiss Christ's blood, have excellent lamb chops, and generally appreciate way more Belgian culture than Brussels, plus good beer and chocolate. here's a web overview: http://www.trabel.com/brugge.htm. Leaving from Stanstead you can get to Oostend which is just a bus ride away from Brugges, but be sure to have Euros for the bus ride. (and be sure to sample the main market's roast chicken, its divine!)
January 19, 2007
I miss u! I love getting all your e-mails about your experiences! Love ya!
Matt:
January 19, 2007
Sounds beautiful in that large, empty, cold, Wuthering Heights sort of way. Did you ever think maybe you should have started out farther south and worked your way up? Just a though ;-) I miss you.
'auntie'Mary Coneway:
January 22, 2007
HI Hale! Such adventures! Will look forward to more. No grass growing under your feet; that's for sure!'
Hugs,
M
Debby McGinn:
January 29, 2007
Hi Hale!! What an exciting adventure you are on and I am so envious. Dan and I would like to treat you to dinner and I have given you rmom $100 for dinner in Paris. A fun & tiny cave restaurant - Chateau Francois Villon, 64 Rue d l'Arbre Sec. on a side street near Louvre. Cal for reservations @01.42.36.10.92. I look forward to hearing more about the trip. Have fun and be safe. Debby xxoo

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