Lwemuna Primary School and Circumcision Ceremonies

December 12, 2008 - Mbale, Uganda

The compound with it's manicured heavy green grass meticulously maintained by a man with a sieve and large trees that gave way to simple brick and mud buildings and chickens, goats, cows and a mischievous pig running freely was not quite what I had in mind when told I would be staying at the Chief JusticeTsekooko's Residence in the small village of Lwemuna, about 30 Kilometer South of Mbale. Richard one of the school teachers of the Lwemuna Primary School showed me my quarters trying to paint a rosy picture of how we would live for the next two weeks.
"This is the reception room" he said as we walked into the simple brick building that resembled a cattle shed rather accommodation, with it's corrugated tin roof dotted with small holes where the bright afternoon sun was penetrating through, casting Lazar like beams of light onto the concrete floor. "and through hear can be one bedroom" as we entered a small empty room to the right of the reception room with white washed walls that had started to turn a light brown from the dust. "and if you follow me through here I'll show you the other bedroom" taking me back across the reception room and into an even smaller room again with browning white washed walls and even more holes penetrating the tin roof making it look like a bazaar constellation in the nights sky "and finally this room can be for eating and socialising" as we walked into the back room, a larger version of the other two rooms I'd just been shown with the exception of containing some furniture, four wooden fold-up chairs and a wooden coffee table. "so what do you think?"
"Yeah great" I said, trying to hide my trepidation "I thought we were being supplied mattresses though?"
"Don't worry, all will be sorted" Richard said in an unconvincing manor. After six months of traveling I had begun to be weary of Africans that used the words "don't worry" as it normally meant the opposite.

Lwenuna Primary School with over 700 pupils and only three completed classrooms where students either attended morning or afternoon classes was in need of additional buildings and for the first time I could see the scale of the work ahead of us. Foundations needed to be dug, large quantities of cement required mixing by hand and brinks needed laying. Makasa, a local man from central Uganda, slight in frame and almost hitting sixty with a real love of brandy was to be our project manager. With over 20 projects under his belt I could see why. For the next ten days we would be completing as much of the project as time and money would allow. The projects only funds coming from international volunteers and the local community was running slowly due to lack of sponsorship and real management.
Local children who attended the school came each day to help with the manual work. I was continuously shocked by how hard children as young as six years old were whiling to work and how able they were to perform the adult tasks of mixing cement, digging and carrying heavy loads of sand and water.

Saturday 6th December was to become ingrained in my mind for eternity I was convinced. The morning started off like any other with breakfast and water collecting from the borehole 500m away. But when the headmasters son strolled into the compound with a glint in his eye that I could read instantly, I know the time had come.
Sitting under a large weeping tree playing cards with David, the tall American and Adam a pale skinned English lad while we waited to confirm the location of the first ceremony,Mukasa explained the procedure of events and what was expected from us.
"Now you will be expected to stand at the front" he explained
"Stand at the front!" I blurted out as I chucked the cards on the floor revealing my pitiful hand "can't we just watch from the back?"
"Your very important people and they are going to want you to have the best view" he stated while tying to hide a smile.
In the distance we could hear the songs of other teenage boys preparing for their circumcision ceremonies. Three days of running with other family members, while covered in a mix of goat dung and millet giving the boy a ghost like appearance, in traditional dress, bear-footed and carrying what looked like a feather duster and a crown of Christmas decorations adorned on there heads.
"Come it's time" calls out the headmasters son as he runs towards us "we must hurry to get the best places".
Arriving at the home of the two boys we were to witness as they went from boyhood to manhood was already a hive of activity but as promised we were shown to the front of a large u-shaped crowd by the boys father. "Here you will have the best view" he explains proudly.
Feeling quite norshus I gritted my teeth and tried to calm my nerves. The intense heat wasn't helping. At that moment the crowed awakened and for the first time I got a glimpse of the two boys, who I already had enormous respect for, as they were ushered into the middle of the crowd by there friends and family members waving sticks in the air. The surgeon clutching very sharp knife indicate to the boys to drop there trousers which they did. I could see a mixture of pride and worry in the boys eyes as there pants drop to the floor. The surgeon stepped forward and a sense of relief come over me as my view was blocked from what was about to happen. In the blink of an eye thesurgery had been performed and the surgeons hand went up clutching a bloodied foreskin and the crowd began cheering and wailing. The father pulls at my arm "come closure, see what a good job they have done". Dripping with blood from having three quarters of the penile skin removed I did the obligatory check and moved away. The boys required to stand like men for three minutes were also straining under the suns raise as they gritted there teeth. Whistles were blown and the mother, aunt and sisters, who had been sitting inside the house appeared dancing and wailing in appreciation of their brave sons. The boys could now sit as friends and family continued to check the surgeons work. There would be great celebrations to follow.

2 Comments

Yvette vincent:
January 10, 2009
Oh errrr! Sounds like fun - NOT!!!
Hope your keeping well Bro? Good to talk to you over Xmas. We're back at work and it already feels like we didn't have a holiday! We're all well now after having the flu over the holidays. The girls got a wii for Xmas tho think Jem goes on it more than them! Take care LOL Vettie xxx : )
Adam:
January 17, 2009
Not so pale-skinned after a couple of months in the sun now!! Must say that day will stick in my memory too... forever! Crazy. Take it easy and good luck with the rest of the trip.

Adam D

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