Hello from relaxed and hippy Pai. After traveling around at what felt like a
very fast pace I have found a little slice of happy land. Nestled in the northern mountains of Thailand, Pai is what Nimbin (NSW) could have been if it had gone in the right direction and was in Thailand- No, back up, that's a terrible description- Pai is just a perfect little village, ruined only by the many Western expatriates who wander around town gossiping about fellow expatriates and always with an enraptured (stoned?) look embedded into their faces.I love it. The food is delicious, the locals are friendly, there are no loud techno clubs- just a few live music venues, the views are beautiful, the pace is laid back and...because it is quiet and has lots of back roads into the hills it is the perfect place to learn to ride a scooter! And I have.
For those that know me this is pretty exceptional (Meka- you remember the last time you tried to teach me to drive). I was nervous to say the least, particularly as I have witnessed the Thai driving style and crazily dangerous takeover techniques, but gently encouraged by a Bavarian German girl (Sarah) I have befriended I was brave.
A brief once over on how to operate the scooter made me scared but also quite relieved as I did
not need to bother with gears, just stop and go. Easy. First attempt had me speeding then jolting to a stop all down the main street with people exaggeratively (I think) leaping out of my path, my face I am sure would have been a look of fear with a just a hint of apology as all my energy was being used to control the little beast. But soon Sarah decided I was ready for a longer driveand we headed off to a nearby waterfall, or so we thought. Instead we drove around town for twenty minutes getting lost- this is a small town people. I gave up trying to help as I was too busy just trying to go in a straight line to worry about such things as directions so I just wobbled along behind her praying we would not have to stop at a traffic light. My take offs were still bad.Finally out of town with the wind in my hair and having yelled at Sarah twice that she was driving on the wrong side of the road, my fear of driving dissolved- Sarah had sagely pointed out that all the tourists I had seen walking about with casts on their arms and legs and broken collarbones and great big red gashes down their thighs, well that, she had soothed, was simply caused by drink driving and quite clearly I was not drunk. In fact I was driving very well, very defensively and most of you would probably agree very slowly (but safe).
So now I am in love with my scooter, I went up to 80 km an hour, while Sarah made it to 110 before slowing down. If I have to go to the market I take my Scooter, to the restaurant = scooter, anywhere = scooter. I have hired it for the whole time I am here. I love it. Ken, next time I am in Hobart that scooter is going out for a drive!
I have a lovely new home set high on stilts alongside the river. It is just before monsoon and it is already getting wet, the bungalows I am staying at close in three weeks as the river will flood and wash all the bungalows away. Apparently they rebuild them every year.
I have been scooting up to the waterfalls and villages and even to Pai Canyon (you have to go on the highway to get there) during the days. And sarah is great company she is brave and outgoing and I have found a fellow companion who is happy to slide along the rocks with the other little kids at waterfalls and take risks and generally is a fantastic courageous girl.The days are so exhilarating what with all our scootering that I am in bed by 9 and up just past sunrise to do it all again.
I love Pai.


