Heading down the coast form North Vietnam to South the terrain suddenly changes from lush green rice paddy fields and thick jungles to a rough dry, sandy landscape. Near Mui Ne Beach it is a little like a desert. The hills behind the beach are actually sand dunes covered in scrubby bushes. I have just been reading a book by Wilfred Thesiger about his travles through the Empty Quarter in Arabia in the 40s and 50s and exploring outside of the beach resorts made me feel like I was there. The sun beats down relentlessly in the middle of the day and you really can't do go outside or out of the water.
One day I foolishly decided to visit The Fairy Springs in the heat of the day. I intended to set off early but it was about 11am by the time I had found them. Of course, I encountrered the kid guides (3 months school holidays here in Vietnam- they are everywhere) who charged me to park my scooter and then 'guide' me up the river. Really if they had shown me how to reach the springs I would have been fine. But they wouldn't leave me.
The creek really runs through the sand dunes until it reaches the sea. It looks murky, but the water is quite clear, the sand beneath makes it look muddy. It is also mostly ankle deep so you can just walk up against the flow to the waterfall which is nice because it was so hot. The boys periodically lifted crabs out of the stream to impress me and aoccasionally point to trees, 'mango', 'pineapple' etc. Or if we had to cross a deeper part, we are talking 30cm deep, they would show me where to cross- they were really trying for a big tip.
Halfway up the river they tell me it will cost more to go further to see the 
waterfall, but warn me it is very small. Ok, I just paid them some money and said I'd go alone. The two boys started arguing amongst themselves over the 3 dollars I had given them and I left them to it. 50 metres on I made it to the waterfall and it really was very small but refreshing. Suddenly the smaller boy reappeared and started taking my photo and leading me up the ridge into the dunes for 'nice photo'. He was right. But it was so hot, he had no shoes on and was running from each shady spot while dircting me on where I should take photos and trying to make me pose. At the top, he stood on branches of dried leaves obviously left there for them to stand on while the tourists take photos. Clever.
Looking down the ridge it was like a little desert Oasis running towads the palms that stretch along the beach. I was so hot and thirsty and told him no more photo, take me to scooter. Halfway back he started stinging me for more money and pouting and generally doing what all these guides do. I was already hoping my scooter headlights wouldn't be smashed in by the other boy.
Of course, on our return the kids crowded me and bombarded him with questions, I sat on my bike guzzling water and tipping it over my throbbing head. Eventually one of the braver children came up to me and asked me how much I paid. I told her thinking nothing of it when all the kids started screaming at him and seemed to be threatening physical violence. He had lied to them. I don't know how the money is figured out with all these kids and families and the few times I have asked kids what their parents are yelling at them about they tell me: money, money, buy, buy, that's what their parents are saying. I ask them what their parents do and they always say fishing, so I am guessing these kids can make much more money then their parents. Am I overpaying, should I refuse to pay at all? I cannot figure it out. If I paid less then these children wouldn't be as keen to spend their time hassling tourists, but then it is school holidays. Anyone with an opinion out there?
Besides this I have been laying on the beach. The wind has picked up so all the kite surfing fraternity are out on their boards and all the beginners struggle in the surf under the wait of the sails of the wind surfers. I sit and read and swim.
I have been reading one of Paulo Coelho books, 'Like The floating River', it's a collections of his thoughts and reflections and it has been really inspiring. Even gives me goose bumps. I recommend it.
Today I leave for Dalat. It will be cold and is descibed as French Bohemian cool in my Lonely Planet...
