I have traveled on many different boats on my journey, the Laos Slow boats with super uncomfortable bench seats, the lovely old Junks that ply the waters of Halong Bay, tiny little boats with a woman paddling and steering from the stern and all of them had one thing in common- they were very very slow. But the boat from Chau Doc near Vietnams border to Cambodias capital, Phnom Penh was the fastest most refreshing form of water transport so far (and the seats ere soft and comfortable. It cost over double the amount of a slow boat but was immeasurably more pleasant. The border crossing itself was very spread out and the boat stopped at different points to sort out exit stamps and visas and then powered in to Cambodias capital. We arrived two hours earlier then expected. Very pleased. As soon as we left the boat a swarm of tuk tuk drivers surrounded us (something I would get used to here in Cambodia) and I had to wade through them and into a little piece of fresh air so I could think straight.
Meka is amazingly good at handling the tuk tuk harassment when I all can do is hold my hands to my ears screaming 'no, no, enough, too much! No tuk tuk, NO TUK TUK'". In fairness it must be a hard way to make a living in Cambodia- everyone is a moto, cyclo or tuk tuk driver. They are evrywhere on every corner, even in their sleep on the back of their vehicles they will raise a sleepy head and drowsilt ask: 'where you go?'.
So, a new country. New language, Food, people, everything. I must have really accustomed myself to Vietnam because I felt that excitement of arriving somewhere different, some new place to explore.
The first thing I noticed was the number of cars on the roads. They seemed so wasteful and gas guzzling when all you need is a motorbike that you seem to be able to carry everything on. And these cars are big 4 wheel drive shiny black numbers. 'Very rich man' our tuk tuk driver said as he was shouted at to move his vehicle so a gigantic 4 wheel drive could park. The rich/poor gap is extreme.
Phnom Penh is a fantastic city. The steets looked clean and it had an almost laid back feel after Saigon. We didn't do any of the big tourist things like visiting The Killing Fields or genocide museum, I find it hard to understand this sort of tourism. I know it is good to be informed to understand the countries history but visiting places of such pain and loss I don't understand (or as some do, to fire a grenade or rifle at targets (both living and still).
Just cruising the streets via motorbike (Meka and I squashed behind our driver who looked about 12) or tuk tuk was enough. Visiting markets and the shadow puppet theatre (closed 
) and interacting with the friendly Cambodians we met was my idea of enjoying my first time in Cambodia.
Unfortunately Mekas motorbike injuries have been giving her a lot of trouble and her foot keeps swelling and looks very red and painful. We went to a clinic last night. They said her grazes were infected and they would have to (look away now if you are queasy)...peel off her scabs and clean the wounds then bandage them back up. The look of horror on our faces when we were told was probably priceless. Poor Meka. I had to leave the room as blood makes my queasy (she wanted me to anyway, people) and I can only imagine the pain she had to endure. She said it was like falling off the bike all over again but in slow motion. Nasty.
She is now back to square one and has to start the healing process all over again.
We left Phnom Penh this morning and arrived in Siam Reap a few hours ago. It is so humid it feels like the thin layer of sweat on my body and the air that surrounds me is one thick soupy wetness.
S
iam Reap is crazy with touts and people wanting your money. It is extreme touristville as everyone is visiting to see Angkor Wat. So many touts when we were leaving the boat shoving flyers in the windows for guesthouses and shouting tuk tuk prices it was like another universe. While we gathered our bags some children came begging for money. Everything was so confusing and dusty and loud I told the know, as we left one of the kids slapped me. Then to add to the chaos one tout
had got on the bus early and said he was from the bus company and would take us to our guesthouse for free. OK? We agreed despite knowing nothing is free here and five minutes into our ride he stopped and started demanding we hire him to tour Angkor Wat the next day. He kept repeating himself and wouldn't take us to the guesthouse. I got so angry, while Meka kept her cool. It was too hot to be tricked like that. Eventually we said we'd pay him to take us to our hotel and he grudgingly accepted. By that stage I had already grabbed my bag and stormed off down the road and had to be coaxed back onto the tuk tuk.
Vietnam was a walk in the park compared to Cambodia. BUt it is beautiful and we have already met some lovely people. Onwards we march for tomorrow is Angkor Wat exploration time...
