The First of Many Temples: Doi Suthep

On Saturday, February 10th we arranged to have a driver bring us to a few of the many temples in the Chiang Mai area. We started with Wat Prathat Doi Suthep which on a mountain outside of Chiang Mai. It is an ideal location for inspiring religious fervor. It is also a very holy temple since it contains Buddha remains and as a result it is a pilgrimage destination for many Thais. Legend indicates that the elephant that carried the relics chose the location; it is the spot where the sacred, white, pachyderm stopped and died. In the14th century this was a powerful indicator in locating a temple of such importance.

Nothing prepares you for the impact as you park the car. We rode on a little funicular to the temple plaza but in the past one ascended 309 steps. It doesn’t matter much how you get there unless you want to climb the stairs to gain merit; once at the top you are faced with one of the most beautiful sites in Thailand. There is a large golden chedi in addition to many beautiful buildings. The rooflines of most of the wooden buildings hold row after row of little brass bells with wishes written on them.

There are rows of large bells with wooden clappers which people ring believing that ringing each bell is equal to a prayer. The sound is wonderful! There are worshippers lighting golden candles and incense throughout the compound which further enhances the sensual aspect of the experience. In addition many lotus blossoms and flowers are offered and little pieces of gold leaf are added to the holy surfaces.

Thai architecture seems to be dictated by an additive quality. There are many rooflines, many statutes, many candles, and many bells. Each surface is lovingly embellished. Decorative elements are added atop more decorative elements. Gold leaf is layered over spectacular images. It becomes a heart-stopping visual treat. There is too much to describe at this temple so I will let the photos speak.

I wish our driver spoken more English in order to give us more information but even with very little interpretation you know you are at a very holy place with a spectacular a sense of awe.

I made a horrible blunder while I was there. I saw a monk who had a lovely tattoo which seemed to be a Sanskrit passage. I loved the image and asked the guide to inquire whether it was okay if I photographed the monk. A scowl from the monk told me the answer so of course I did not. But it is something I feel horrible about even as I tell the story. Apparently the script would have been added to his skin as a sacred ceremony and isn’t just a tattoo. Our guide wasn’t the best at helping us understand these things but you figure it out from visual cues. Oddly I rarely photograph people, preferring details so it still seems odd that I even asked.

Outside the temple there are many vendors selling images of the Buddha along with small Hill Tribe children singing in hopes of a little donation. And of course there are wonderful foods offered including the most beautiful, local strawberries!