Memphis and Nashville, Tenessee

It was always going to be hard to follow the high-life of Miami and Memphis was certainly a step backwards on the lifestyle front! Shortly after arriving at Memphis airport, I took a $15 cab to Graceland camping and RV ground...Yes you read correctly I was staying at the home of the King himself. My accomodation was in the form of a log cabin with free wasp infestation included in the $40/night price !! It was cheap and cheerful and something I had wanted to try out.

My first night consisted of a few beers in the Heartbreak Hotel and an early night to catch up on some sleep. First thing the next day it was off to Graceland. I've got to admit, I was treating it as a cheesey joke of a day out, but the place really won me over. By the times we had made it to the resting place of Elvis, next to his parents I was really into it. Its truely amazing to see his house kept in pristine condition after decades of very little use. This place really is impressive and when I tell people that i've been to Graceland I'll no longer do it with a embarrased giggle.

After an evening at a local BBQ joint I got another decent nights sleep before getting up and heading to Sun Studios. This is the studio made famous by discovering Elvis and holding sessions for, amongst others, Roy Orbison, Jerry Lee Lewis and Jonny Cash! It was a fantastic tour and a great experience, during which you get to hit a few notes on the actual microphone these great talents used to sing with. Although stories of Elvis-mad women coming through and licking this 50 yr old device prevented me from getting too close!

The famous Beale St with its blues bars and the infamous spot where Jeff Buckley was found washed up was a great place. Unfortunately, the same cannot be said of the rest of Memphis. The city and its outskirts are not to be taken lightly as years of poverty have fuelled desperate people to turn to crime. mugging and worse. It really is a sad sight and not the kind of place to be walking after dark.

The following day I took a 5hr greyhound bus to Nashville, which was GREAT! Nashville embodied everything I had imagined this country music heaven to be. Great bars, great people and a hostel which made it all worthwhile. The music city hostel was great, I met some great guys and girls and the manager there, Hope, was a mother figure to all except for after dark when she encouraged drunkeness and cranked up the bluegrass!!

I had some great nights on the town and enjoyed the music bars and local eateries during the days, it was the perfect blend of country style and buzzing background metropolis. A place I really wished I could stay longer.

After 5 days here I was off to Indianapolis to meet up with Tom, Gaz and Martin (fellow PhD'ers visiting here on a conference). Ive been here for a few days now and the phrase 'hitting it hard' doesnt get close to describing the debauchery going on here. When I recover enough to re-live the story, I'll let you know all about it!!