From Kanniyakamuri, we travelled by bus to Trivandrum (3 hours) then chickened out of a further hour or so and caught a tuk tuk to Kovalam. Anyone who visited Kovalam pre 2001 will be extremely surprised (if not shocked) at the changes there. Even since we were last there in 2007, things have changed .. grown ... but do now seem to have stabilised. No longer is the front a strip of sand with a few stalls in front of some sand floored restaurants. Now, there is a wide paved promenade fronting restaurants packed in like sardines (freudian statement .. it's dinner time!!), each vying for trade.. almost (but not quite) to the point of walking away from the lot.
Although not expensive by Western standards, the uplift in costs here is very noticeable... 60 rupees for a Masala Dosa whereas normally we'd pay between 17 and 25; 200 - 300 rupees for sunbeds; it all starts to add up at the end of the day.
It must be said, though, that the setting at Kovalam is lovely - and some things never change. Anyone who has been there will be familiar with the cry "Su' Glass Eess" from the very well known beach seller who still walks the beaches with sunglasses (and now reading glasses) on his belt, head, shirt, pockets, bag .... in fact, anywhere you can possibly hang a pair of glasses on a person. There are others, but he must be the most well known to tourists from far and wide.
We did stay in an excellent hotel, Grand Lands, just a short walk away from the beach. Very spacious room and very clean - excellent value.
Off to Ernakulum by train then possibly to Munnar followed by a couple of days RnR in Gokarna before heading back to Mumbai.
