SUSAN: Well, here I am in Darjeeling--sniff--sans Dave.
As it turns out, the Sikkimese government turned out to be slightly less transparently friendly and helpful than they'd appeared. For one thing, although Dave was assured that he could absolutely positively get back by Saturday, it turns out that there is no way for him to get here until Monday, which means I will be here for a whole week. Moreover, rather than the 20 Western treckers he was told would accomany him, his travel companions consist of one 21-year old Australian and three Sikkimese high school kids. Apparently, this treck is meant as some sort of cultural exchange for the kids, a fact that was conveniently left out of the trip description.
Sadly, being separated by miles of winding mountainous terrain from the nearest thing resembling a village, I have had make do with the activities available here-- which seem endlessly thrilling and cosmopolitan compared to the (albeit beautiful)mountainous isolation of the Sikkimese villages we have been staying in the past few weeks.
So, what else have I discovered while Dave has been gone? Well, for one thing, I learned that it is possible to fit 16 people, including me, into a single jeep! Also, in some cultures, it is not considered particularely unsafe to drive such a jeep at high speeds along winding, narrow, unpaved cliffside roads without guardrails, or anything, separating jeep from thousand meter drop. The best was when we encountered another vehicle coming towards us, in which case we would have to retrace our perilous route--backwards(!). This is another reason why I am staying in Darjeeling until Dave gets here-- so that we can look into other options for leaving-- possibly renting a small helicopter.
My percieved brush with death made me all philsophical. I thought about what it means to travel in India, and decided that if you have any phobias, or even strong aversions of any kind, coming here will definitly force you to come face to face with them in a major way: angry barking street dogs, all manner of insect, germs, rickety bridges over raging rivers, rats, crap, rotting things, heights, insane drivers, snakes, disease, crowds, enclosed spaces, sharing enclosed spaces with crowds, dirt, learing men, packs of butt-slapping schoolchildren that gang up on you even though they are too young to be into that kind of thing...ahhh...but it also makes you realise that life doesnt have to be boring, that everything can be an adventure, from crossing the road, to eating, to using the bathroom, and buying even the most simple things and being faced with a crazy haggle, not to mention driving from point A to point B. No wonder so many gods are worshipped here-- you need all the help you can possibly gather just to make it through a single day!
Having said this, every day here feels like the best day of my life...until the next day comes.
I have also decided, after watching a movie called "Race" at the local theatre during a rain shower yeaterday, to make Bollywood film a daily part of my life, at least until Dave gets back. Regular musical interludes, romance, intreague, race cars, explosions...I havn't had that much fun at the movies since, well, ever! And I swear you do not need to know Hindi to follow the plot. Actually...I think I just might pop down and see what's playing right now.
Namaste!
Susie
